Kashmir. The Paradise on Earth. It’s really beautiful. With endless mountain ranges, snow-clad tops kissing the blue sky. The pines, deodars, poplars and chinars standing tall and firm. The rivers twisting and turning, racing down the hills with ice cold glacial water. The scenic beauty of Kashmir is splendid. The royal hospitality is in tandem with the nature as well.
On our journey to Kashmir, we friends had no idea how it would turn out to be entering into a tiger’s den (land of “Sher-e-Kashmir”). Travelling towards our humble abode cum workplace was an experience in itself. Deciphering Kashmiri, spoken colloquially, was our first encounter with the transport system in Kashmir. We travelled from Jammu to Srinagar to Karan nagar to Kupwara to Sulkoot in a private sumo. Okay, we almost reached within some 17-18 hours to our “Abode of Smiles” (Basera-e-Tabbasum). There was only private transport whether bus or sumo. No public transport. One had to bargain and decide for the journey fare beforehand. The car deck played some Kashmiri songs. We all wondered why the song is being repeatedly played. However, the kind driver enhanced our knowledge that Kashmiri songs have similar tunes and it’s because we were from India or outside (as they call anybody who is not from Kashmir and coming to Kashmir is an outsider...) we did not understand original Kashmiri music (?) The sumo driver was our travel guide as well. He explained the significance of every picturesque sight in the valley, in the ranges, along the river and in the city itself.
He also turned out to be of great help as we lost our way to the destined place. His mobile was the only means for our communication with organisation’s project manager. The vodaphones, BPLs, Airtels were useless. No roaming. Only local cards were operational in Kashmir. For an Indian or outsider, as they called us, purchasing a local sim card is not that easy. If one does so he/she would naturally come under the police or military scanner (don’t know the reason why? they say for security reasons). Finally, with all the deliberations we reached our Abode of Smiles, where our compatriots were waiting to welcome us. Aged from 2 years to 17 years, all girls, they flashed broad smiles and gave a warm hug. It felt as though we met after ages.
We were served hot “noon” chai, i.e. namkeen chai, where they put salt in the tea. It actually tasted weird. But we all gulped it down our throats with a “thank you very much” response writ large on our faces when asked for more. I really cannot stop laughing recalling the incident and the expressions on everyone’s faces! We mingled around with the kids, next day, had some chat with them and listened to their bubbly voices speaking all at the same time.
We were to work alongwith the students of Social Work College in Kashmir. The work was basically an Emergency Medical Health Survey and a Vocational Training Survey. We surveyed around 45 villages in 5 Blocks of Kupwara district. It was an amazing experience for me, since day one! From accidently stepping into cow dung to jumping over the mud and tearing off my salwar right upto my knee to clumsily falling down from the edge of an elevation and getting all covered with mud and then washing it off into an ice-cold raging river dreadfully. It was worth an experience! I felt as though this part of my life would highlight the worthiness of my memoirs. Jokes apart, it was also painful, when I was down with cold, some skin infection, nausea, dysentery (worst of all! It drained me completely) and an almost paralysed tongue...
The experience brought me closer to Kashmir, the social life and culture of people. The way they welcome people, respond with dignity and respect, care and warmth. Although living in sheer poverty and widespread disparity, they offered tea and snacks to the guest or visitors who came home. They said it is in their culture to take good care of any person who visits their home or asks for any kind of help. On a single day we used to drink many cups of tea, maximum of 12 cups on one of the days in total of 24 days of survey! It may sound hilarious but it is very difficult to say “no” politely, and at the 13th house you almost burst out and threaten them that “if you ask me for tea I will leave this place right now...”
Yet, to sum it, I would say, all’s well that ends well. We made new friends, learnt a bit of Kashmiri (no, not the songs, yet.), drank “kawa” (another type of tea made of spices with no milk), used “kangdi” (earthen pot placed in a cane basket with smoldering coal beneath the ashes) to keep ourselves warm in the cold rainy weather. And yes, made some reports of the survey, to impress our project manager and professor back at college…. No way, we made them because it was mandatory. Otherwise, we would have spent time lavishly staying in the villages and learning a little bit more of Kashmiri, isn’t it?
Thank you, Kashmir. Oh, I am so sorry. Again, the same mistake. We do not say “Thank you” or “Sorry” in Basera-e-Tabbasum... Friends do not behave with such formalities.. We learnt this as well.
Will miss Ruhi’s sweet voice, Heena’s tasty pungent food, Sunita’s warm smile, Salima’s gentle voice and sparkling eyes, Jameela’s ambitious spirit, Shaziya’s sweet chirpy speech, Soha’s infant ways, Rubina’s pranks, Afroza’s shyness…..and many more memories…
